A Pomerol Dinner by 2 Michelin Star Chef Philippe Mille

philippe-mille-queeneco-banner-sA Pomerol dinner by Chef Philippe Mille — Meilleur Ouvrier de France & 2 Michelin Star — at Petrus, Island Shangri-La Hong Kong.   Coincidently it’s Thanksgiving, and am thankful that this time I don’t have to fly over to Reims to enjoy some of his signature creations.

是隔三年,在感恩節再度遇上來自香檳區的兩星級大廚 Philippe Mille。感激今趟毋須長途跋涉越洋到訪。是夜主題為波爾多右岸的 Pomerol 著名產區。

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Happy to see Chef Philippe Mille from the beautiful Domaine Les Crayeres in Reims again. From his collar, you could tell that he is a M.O.F. (Best craftsmen of France).

 

We started our great dinner with a fabulous bottle of Louis Roederer, Cristal, 2002.   It’s a sculpted wine with an extraordinary elegance, very concentrated, very expressive.  There had been only two times — 2002 and 2015 — the fruit from all 42 plots reserved for Cristal was used.  

一個美好的年份,Cristal 2002 為晚宴揭開序幕。

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After 30 minutes of champaign time, finally all guests were here.  We kicked start with Kobe beef tartare and caviar, paired with a very fun wine — Trilogie of Château Le Pin, N.V..  It’s not the second wine of Le Pin but rather a special cuvee blending multiple vintages of Cabernet Franc and Merlot from Le Pin (100% Melot for Le Pin).  Production of Le Pin is around 500 cases/year, so you may imagine how small the production of Trilogie is.  From the beginning until the end, it has been performing very well, indeed very much alive and enjoyable.  

以牡蠣草提味的神戶牛肉他他,蓋上魚子醬。一向不偏好生肉,這是整晚唯一一道沒有吃完的菜式。

Château Le Pin 旗下的 Trilogie N.V. 混合了 Le Pin 三個年份的次級 Cabernet Franc 和 Merlot,我們稱它為 fun wine,是世界上高級紅酒中少有的年份混合佳釀。由晚宴開始至終,這支酒帶有玩味之餘,表現出乎意料之外地穩定。

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Kobe beef tartare, oyster leaves, caviar.

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Next, thick carpaccio of langoustines from Brittany, caviar, with delicate sauces to form a stained glass alike representation of the crustacean shell, made with Merlot juice, a true essence that maximizes the flavor of the subject here.

Château Le Pin 2005 — sensual right from the beginning with attractive sweetness and expansiveness.  Surprisingly, it paired very well with the langoustines, probably  thanks to its minerality.  

Château L’Evangile, 2005 — it showed a very different terroir, initially very blackcurrant pastilles that I grew up eating.  Towards the end, it became creamy and very vanilla.  It’s a beautiful wine without the same level of complexity as Le Pin 2005.  

打破一般人認為海鮮必然配上白酒的常規,沒想過小龍蝦會出奇地與貴為 Pomerol 三首之一的 Le Pin 2005 紅酒融合,或許歸功於其隱藏的礦物感,令小龍蝦即時變得更鮮甜。旁邊的彩色玻璃造型醬汁精準地為食物提鮮,在此細微之處盡顯廚師功力。同場的另一支 L’Evangile, 2005,它起初充滿兒時黑加侖子糖果的味道,到後期裡面的雲尼拿質感則熱情綻放,可惜在 Le Pin 面前不幸地淪為配角,建議過些年在其他場合獨立品嚐。

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Soon after Philippe Mille came into the room with a very good surprise for everybody, for a few seconds I couldn’t smell anything else but the aroma of white truffles.  We were all smiling as he shaved in the right dosage onto our already tasty soft lobster meat, wrapping over scallops and cepe mushrooms.

Petrus 2004 — Perhaps since I am a vintage lover, my nose especially picked up notes of dust from an antique furniture shop, in fact quite dusty.

La Fleur 1995 — Very much pencil shavings among other tertiary notes.

正值白松露的季節,沒想過大廚慷慨與在座每位分享這顆白鑽石,意料之外的驚喜總是令人更歡欣。感恩節集齊 Pomerol 三瑰寶及白松露,感恩。直到這一環,個人認為 Le Pin 2005 依然勝出。

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Thankful to these three precious gems all in one night out of 150 producers in an appellation that is 1/7 of Saint Émilion. Double thankful for having a very good sommelier to prepare them and serve us properly, a guaranteed for maximum enjoyment.

 

My favorite course of the night  — a perfect runny softed boiled egg in Coteaux Champenois red wine (from Champagne region), a true delicacy with subtil flavors.

Chateau La Conseillante 1982 or Chateau Château Certan de May 1982?  Was impressed by the refined freshness of La Conseillante 1982, especially after some swirling. A contrast to the considerably fat and thick Certan de May 1982 which was a bit backward initially…both were good in a different way.

一個看似簡單的日常食材,經過大廚的魔術之手,變成細緻且層次感尤為豐富的紅酒版本茶葉蛋。年屆37的 Chateau La Conseillante 1982 與 Chateau Château Certan de May 1982 各有千秋,隨著歲月洗禮,前者活潑依舊,後者變得敦厚,兩種性格全視乎各人口味和喜好。

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Thought it’s dessert time…on the contrary, it’s the meat course- Challans duck filet from the star grower Madame Burgaud stuffed with foie gras, in duck juice with wine lees, fermented beetroot on the side.  Beyond the usual format for duck meat, clean and precise, another signature of Philippe Mille.

The Petrus 1979 was dancing in my glass, still very vibrant, complex, and elegant.  A bit of dustiness from old bookshelf, and of pencil scrap among all fragrances.  My second favorite of the night…

來到第5道菜,驟眼看以為是甜品的時間,出自 Challans 區星級飼養員的鴨肉,釀入鵝肝,配搭以酒糟調色的鴨汁。大廚的匠心及創意表露無遺,突破傳統鴨肉的格式,簡潔有力的一道菜。

Petrus 1979 躍動非凡,猶如在我的杯裡起舞,集朝氣、複雜性、優雅於一身。散發出似是舊書店、鉛筆屑的悠遠韻味,是第二最愛。

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Finally came the dessert — pear cubes in light cream of walnuts, and Ratafia gel.  A very light dessert indeed, which was not very sweet in the way I liked it.

洋梨配上核桃淡忌廉及帶杏仁味的 Ratafia 醬,十分輕巧解膩,整體微甜,甜度剛好。

To accompany our dessert, we were very lucky to have Domaine Huet, Le Haut Lieu, Vouvray, 1959 (moëlleux) — being said as the Romanée-Conti or Lafite of the Loire Valley, thanks to the age-worthy Chenin Blanc.  The 1959 was a gem (hardly available in the market), with the signature notes of caramel, honey, mineral, floral, and dried fruits.

Even though there were between 40-60 g/l of sugar, it got a very good balance with its acidity, thus being deliciously mouth-watering.

好戲在後頭:有幸遇上可遇不可求的甜氣泡酒 Le Haut Lieu, Vouvray, 1959 (moëlleux) — 它在盧瓦爾河谷的地位,有如布根地的Romanée-Conti 和 波爾多的Lafite。Chenin Blanc 是該地的明星白提子,擁有超長的陳年能力。

這杯有分量甜氣泡酒,以其焦糖味馳名。喝著喝著,Chenin Blanc 葡萄的氧化味道、蜜糖、礦物、花香以及乾果的氣息逐漸四溢。雖然含糖量達到在40到60克/升,但酸甜比例恰到好處,甜而清爽濃郁。

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Le Haut-Lieu — The original Huet vineyard is nearly 9 hA. It has the richest soils of the domaine’s three crus.

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And wine of the night goes to… Le Pin 2005.

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A satisfying dinner in every aspect. Thank you Chef Philippe Mille for a very precisely-executed contemporary French meal. Also thank you Yohann Jousselin for an exceptionally-curated wine list.

沒有嘩眾取寵的旁門左道,只有精湛紮實的廚藝,運用海外廚房依然不失真功夫,一餐吃得滿足舒服而不膩的新派法國菜。

 

Petrus Restaurant, Island Shangri-La Hong Kong

Domaine Les Crayeres, Reims

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