Burgundy Evening: Domaine de la Romanée-Conti At Petrus, Island Shangri-La

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With Michelin 2-star Chef Stephanie Le Quellec (also an ex Top Chef winner) from Paris in town, delighted to have attended a wine dinner of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti (DRC) curated by Master Sommelier Yohann Jousselin (regional wine director of Shangri-la) at the beautiful Petrus restaurant.

來自巴黎的米芝蓮二星廚師 Stephanie Le Quellec 訪港到香格里拉酒店的 Petrus 法國餐廳作客席廚師,一場以 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti (DRC) 為主題的重量級美酒夜宴因此而成。是夜的主角固然是美酒與客席星級廚師,同場的主席侍酒師亦是不可或缺的靈魂。

 

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Started off by this breathtaking Pierre Peters Grand Cru Cuvée Les Chetillons, it was a love at first sip, so much finesse, purity, good depth, simply put, outstanding. Completely irresistible to have just a glass. This grower champagne blanc de blancs cuvee was made with chardonnay grapes from 3 plots of the lieu-dit Chetillons in the Grand Cru village of le Mesnil sur Oger, the piece of land that is considered as one of the most beautiful in the Champagne area…is definitely a treasure at a fraction of the price tag of Krug Clos de Mesnil and Salon.

一進場便以這支出眾的小產量香檳  Pierre Peters Grand Cru Cuvée Les Chetillons 揭幕,是一個很相配合適的選擇。原本只打算淺嘗,心感好戲在後頭,卻一啖傾心,整個人像被一強而帶柔的勁喚醒,完全被俘虜,深信再過多些年必定更精彩,唯產量不多,遇上必定不容錯過。

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We started with the fresh and floral Grand Échézeaux 2012, paired with seared scallops (other people had raw tuna), smoked aubergine soup, fresh herbs sorbet.

頭盤為香煎帶子配 DRC Grand Échézeaux 2012。

All the staff kept emphasizing that this dinner was wine driven,  I appreciate the way we could enjoy some fine wines when a guest chef of high calibre in town, and being guided by a solid sommelier in a beautiful private room, this way, we could fully enjoy everything in the optimal arrangement.

Love the herbs sorbet, it’s refreshing as an appertizer, together with the intense natural sweetness from the scallops, and the mildly smokey flavor of the aubergine, the dish works with the red currants, strawberries, herbal spices of the wine. Crisp acidity of this Grands Échézeaux elevated the umami of my scallops.  It got some hawthorn, bloody animal notes and more and more dried strawberries after…Everything was subtly elegant.

頭盤的伴菜,以一個不甜的香草雪葩形態呈上,為主幹食材畫龍點睛,一切也來得自然。

 

Second course: Langoustine Manger Blanc, guess what was this intended to be paired with?To my surprise, the Corton Grand Cru 2009, the inaugural Corton vintage of DRC , a more masculine and bigger wine than the first Grand Échézeux…

第二道菜以小龍蝦相伴 Corton Grand Cru 2009 。

Yohann explained that with a guest chef in town, he wouldn’t want to change much what she has prepared, thus a bit more difficult to curate a precise pairing than usual. Nonetheless I enjoyed the straight to the point with a fun twist approach of Stephanie Le Quellec, it’s about gimmicks that wow but effortless harmony and subtle refinement. Indeed classic French on the contemporary, light side.

 

Veal filet – simply roasted to perfection, enhanced by homemade harissa and the nutty cauliflower in two textures.

Which wine was the tender veal filet  intended to be paired with?  It’s a duo of DRC St Vivant 1992- herbal and herbal tea, earthy, lively spiciness Échézeaux 1988 – dried flowers, leather, and Chinese preserved century egg, not very expressive that night, a bit underwhelming.

DRC St Vivant 1992 及 Échézeaux 1988 相伴嫩滑牛仔肉。

In this round none of them was my wine of the night, I enjoyed the veal  ( have to confess that I have drunk 15 glasses in another vertical tasting the same day prior to this dinner),  much needed some hot food to freshen up my palate.

Everything on my plate was in harmony. Not the kind of dish that wows yet enjoyable and not dated (in-line with my expectation).

Sometimes it’s not easy for a guest chef to deliver his/her best when guest cooking in a foreign kitchen with a different team. I found guest chef Stephanie Le Quellec was doing a decent job.

drc-wine-dinner-queeneco-Richebourg-1971The most expressive and, evidently from first sip, the wine of the night among all DRC bottles on that night is this his DRC Richebourg 1971, still got a lot of lively acidity, intense aroma, and power with elegance.

Its sousbois wet wood paired very well with the Porcini Mushrooms tagliolinni that was topped with black truffle and persil emulsions.  It was light and just right.

是夜之最非這瓶 DRC Richebourg 1971 莫屬,芳香四溢,感受到一股勁,卻是柔和的。

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The Art of Serving the Right Portion: It has been a satisfying night without arriving home feeling stuffed.

一餐晚飯,高低之別在於高手不會讓你吃罷後感覺油膩撐胃,而是點到即止的滿足。

 

 

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